By Maliha Rehman
The best menswear collections stand out for their neat cuts. Unlike their female counterparts, silhouettes for men can’t hide within the folds of voluminous layers or swathes of embroidery. The well-defined collar stands out, so does a well-fitted waistcoat, a sleek pair of pants and a sharp suit.
Designer Emraan Rajput understands this. His lineup at this year’s Pantene Hum Bridal Couture Week (BCW), titled Shalima 2024, exemplified his eye for cuts coupled with an understanding of what the market wants and spurts of experimentation. There is a tricky balancing act to creating menswear; if a designer has a penchant for bling, the clothes may downslide towards gaudy and should austere lines be followed, the designs can get lackluster. With years of experience in retailing menswear and showcasing at fashion weeks, Emraan balances just fine.
The Shalima 2024 lineup included both men’s formal Eastern-wear as well as suits – options for the perpetual desi wedding season as well as funkier options for parties! Opening the show, model Aimal Khan wore ivory, amped up by beige embroidery with just a slight smattering of bling. His flowing angarkha and pajama was paired with an embellished jacket and an elaborate turban – the effect was Mughal-esque.
The Mughals, in fact, came to mind quite often while viewing Emraan’s Eastern-wear. Luxe fabrics in a predominant palette of gold, beige and ivory were set off by embroideries. There were embroidered shawls with elaborate borders and so many variations of lowers: a well-cut straight pant, the chooridar pajama, the shalwar and a free-flowing laacha! A traditional, very appealing touch was added by some of the dulhas wearing turbans with beads framing the face, forming the ‘sehra’.
Fast-forwarding from the Mughal era to present day were the suits. There were jackets with glittering lapels, effortlessly cool suits, casual bow-ties amping up a classic silhouette and tuxedoes all set to swing into a winter ball. Also featured amongst the suits was the only womanswear in the collection, worn by showstopper Amna Ilyas – and it was truly showstopping! Wearing a black blazer embellished with silver, Amna walked out on the runway with the fiery presence that reminded one of her modeling days. It was classy, elegant and so much better than the slipshod gowns presented by local ateliers in the guise of Western-wear for women.
Ahsan Khan was the other showstopper, walking out right at the end. Wearing an all-black kurta, pajama and sherwani with black-on-black embellishment, the actor exuded star-power. What caught the eye, though, was the placard that he held in his hand, declaring, ‘For Every Child For Every Home Peace For Palestine’.
In a similar vein, the models came out for their final walk wearing the keffiyah in solidarity with the people of Gaza with ‘Dami Falasteeni’ playing in the background. It was a brilliant move and an important one – the video and the images trended all across social media.
But while a show might trend on social media, long-term sales can only be generated if a brand is worth it’s salt. Emraan Rajput knows how to make an impact at a fashion show. He’s also a marketing marvel when it comes to celebrity collaborations – a fleeting glance at his brand’s social media pages reveals campaigns with Pakistan’s A-list of actors. The star power and the viral videos may build his clout and must certainly draw people to his atelier.
What induces them to buy from Emraan Rajput, however, is his skill with cuts and his eye for urbane, sophisticated palettes and embroideries. Many menswear brands may endeavor to create suits and sherwanis from glittering fabrics and embroidery. But not many can master a sharp collar.
Emraan Rajput can, certainly.
What do you think?