By Maliha Rehman
Inside Mohsin Naveed Ranjha’s ‘Hussan Ara Mansion’, model Sadaf Kanwal is framed within the borders of a dilapidated window. Resplendent in glittering, heavily embellished bridal-wear, she stands in sharp contrast to her surroundings; the peeling walls and dust-laden doorways forming the backdrop to a series of brightly colored lehngas and cholis. She could be an age-old princess, her spirit trapped within the walls of this long-forgotten haveli, roaming the corridors in her finest formal-wear, laden with heavy jewels.
Zoom in on the pictures and they are, ultimately, meant to showcase the latest MNR wedding-wear line. Captured through the lens of photographer Rizwan-ul-Haq, with light and shadow reflecting off the bold motifs worked with gota, the images become artistic.
“This collection is dedicated to my love for Karachi,” says the designer. “Karachi, for me, was always a challenge. As a designer based in Gujranwala, who first expanded his market to Lahore, I was told that it was going to be tough attracting in clientele in Karachi. When I opened my store in Karachi in January last year, people advised me to change my aesthetic for this new market. I was told that customers in Karachi appreciated subtlety while the MNR signature has always been bold and flamboyant.”
Mohsin continues, “I was adamant. My brand has always been associated with bright colors and loud embroideries. I was not going to change my signature just because I was expanding to another city. Ultimately, this turned out to be my store’s USP. Customers visiting my store in Karachi have often told me that they appreciate how my aesthetic is completely different from that of others.”
As an ode to the city that has welcomed him and now become an established part of his business model, Mohsin shot ‘Hussan Ara Mansion’ in Karachi’s rustic, crumbling havelis reminiscent of glorious times of yore. Enlisting photographer Rizwan-ul-Haq, styling Tabesh Khoja and model Sadaf Kanwal, the shoot consists of eight designs from the MNR Gold Series.
The expansion to Karachi last year was followed this year with the designer spreading his wings internationally, opening up a store in London. The MNR clientele, says the designer, has promptly multiplied, with many within London’s vibrant melting pot of desis – Indians, Pakistanis, Bengalis, et al – turning to his store for their festive-wear requirements. The influence of this diverse clientele can be seen in this latest wedding-wear line: the palette is brighter than the past collections, the patterns are very bold and silhouettes predominantly consist of lehngas and cholis. The clothes are made in Pakistan but they have an appeal attuned to the palette of customers across the Indo-Pak subcontinent.
Beyond the obvious design elements, there are details that catch the eye: the heavy lining of kiran bordering a dupatta, the chata-pati dupatta paired with a beautiful long shirt in ivory, the cut-work along the neckline on a choli in deep purple, the mix of marori, tilla and sequins on an elaborate neckline.
It’s a heavily embellished collection, with two dupattas draped across either shoulder and embroidered potlis complementing the designs. “Two dupattas gave the outfit a regal touch,” says Mohsin, “and a lot of our clients appreciate the fact that they can later utilize the dupattas with other outfits. This collection is from our Gold Series line and usually, we prefer that customers buy the designs as they are, without getting changes made. The embroideries are a mix of machine and hand in order to keep the prices more competitive. Once the customer starts asking for customization, the costs inevitably increase.”
Why did the designer opt for an artistic, dramatic shoot when ultimately, customers will want to see the designs more clearly? “Customers who are intrigued by the shoot will visit our website or our stores to see the collection up-close. My brand has now evolved; I can experiment, create looks that are dramatic and catch the eye. I am no longer a new designer testing the waters and trying to win over clientele. I am thankful that customers are now well aware of my brand and they trust it.”
What’s next for MNR? “More expansion,” he promises, “and more collections, new lines, new techniques.”
For now, ‘Hussan Ara Mansion’ has just launched, right in time for customers looking out for wedding-wear for fall/winter festivities.
What do you think?