By Maliha Rehman
In the run-of-the-mill, dreary landscape that now masquerades as ‘Pakistani fashion’, there are a few designers that one is thankful for. This rapidly depleting motley crew is still inclined towards creativity, eschewing the tendency to design clothes that one has seen a trillion times before and somehow, very intelligently, balancing innovation with commercial gains.
One of these designers is indubitably Hussain Rehar.
A cursory glance at the designer’s official Instagram page makes it clear that he likes to walk off the beaten track, but not so far from it that he becomes irrelevant. A Hussain Rehar creation is commercially viable while also retaining distinctive design elements. A basic tunic will be amped up by funky patterns, a long shirt will ooze glamor with the aid of a unique neckline. It will all be very wearable, very aesthetically pleasing and yet, it will be designer-wear rather than the usual pretty clothes that have nothing new to offer.
From wedding-wear to luxury formals to the mass market realms of unstitched fabric, the young designer has a flair for adding little touches that make his designs stand out.
Isn’t it wonderful, then, that Hussain is now branching out towards affordable ready-to-wear? The soon-to-launch Hussain Rehar lineup of pret is called Jugnu and akin to the firefly that is its namesake, one hopes that it will bring some light into the local ready-to-wear market.
There is an enticing ‘coming soon’ added in the caption underneath the few initial glimpses floated out on Instagram and in the quintessential Hussain Rehar way, the styling is uber cool. It all looks very promising: a monochrome tunic, pant and jacket sets, flared pants paired with easy breezy baggy shirts, a basic kurta amped up by a polka dotted stole, a two-piece kurta and pant set layered with a funky waistcoat and fun, utilitarian totes. It’s daily-wear that one could just throw on while going to work or university but so much more than the daily-wear available in the market right now.
It’s also notable that while the designs are very savvy, they are not at all age-specific. The flared shirt with dull golden print could be worn just as easily be a teenager as by a working woman in her 40’s. The basic kurtas with statement embroidered patterns could be worn by men and women of all ages. It’s all quite clever and a lesson in retail 101 – Hussain knows how to create clothes that may look great on young models but would appeal to the middle-aged Pakistani man or woman. After all, the young ones may have great fashion sense but generally, they don’t have the finances to splurge out on clothes the way the latter do!
“The entire collection is stitched from cotton,” describes the designer, “and we have used machine embroideries and prints. The whole point is to create clothes that stand out, are easy to wear and are competitively priced.”
These ‘competitive’ prices, though, are yet to be finalized. “We’re trying to bring down prices as much as we can,” says Hussain. “My team has been assessing the general price ranges of ready-to-wear in the market and hopefully we will be able to match these price points.”
Even at a slight – very slight, preferably – increase from the general market price ranges, the Jugnu line is an attractive option simply because it looks so unique. Consider the current options for pret in any mall in Pakistan right now: pretty ranges of cotton kurtas worked with machine chikankari that all look the same, co-ords in colorful prints and the usual spate of lawn kurtas with embroidered necklines which will never ever lose popularity.
It is all very repetitive, very commonplace and not at all representing a singular designer vision. Jugnu, at this initial point, is offering designs that look like a designer has sketched them out and then, brought them to life. One hopes that the lineups continue to be the same, in the long run.
I am curious: are the cottons utilized in creating the clothes lightweight or slightly more stiff? “A bit more stiff,” says Hussain, “so that the clothes fall well. If I were to utilize lightweight lawn, the designs would crumple very easily.”
Wouldn’t the cotton be too thick, then, to wear in the summer? “It’s a very comfortable fabric,” he assures me. “To my mind, the clothes will be great choices for an office meeting, for a luncheon, an official dinner, a casual evening-out.”
Why, though, has Hussain opted to dabble with the lower profit margins of ready-to-wear when he’s already hooked a loyal clientele for luxury formals and wedding-wear? “I just think that there is a gap in the market for it,” he observes. “There is nothing fun that I can just go and buy from a local high-street store. Pret isn’t exciting anymore.”
According to Hussain, Jugnu will initially be retailing online only. “We are currently in the process of setting up a new store in a prime shopping location in Lahore. Once the store opens, it will stock the Jugnu line for purchasing off-the-rack as well as Hussain Rehar formals.”
The upcoming very first Jugnu collection is a capsule line consisting of seven options for women and three for men. The menswear kurtas, from my first look at them on Instagram, seem quite gender fluid. “Yes, women have been liking them a lot too,” agrees Hussain.
I don’t think anyone with a penchant for distinctive design could not like the Jugnu collection. Bring it to retail, Hussain Rehar (and make it affordable)!
What do you think?