By Maliha Rehman
Winsome, flirtatious, demure – Mohsin Naveed Ranjha’s Ankh Macholi flits about on an ivory canvas that is instantly appealing. It is a beautiful lineup, lightweight, diaphanous, with tone-on-tone thread embroideries and a mix of cotton, cotton-net, chiffon and flowing organzas. Perfect for the summer. Perfect for the upcoming Eid-ul-Adha festive season.
Why, though, has this collection been named after a game of hide and seek? The designer elaborates, “Ankh Macholi really started with a simple thought: how do women look at men? Not in the way we’re used to seeing in cinema or advertising, but in real life. When women notice someone, it’s not loud or showy. It’s in a passing glance, a soft smile, a small moment that says so much without saying anything at all. We wanted to capture that feeling when someone’s warmth, their kindness, their steadiness makes them unforgettable. It’s not about chasing or claiming. It’s about that softness, that calm that draws you in.”
As is the case with all MNR campaigns, special attention has been given to the selection of models, the styling and the setting in which the clothes are showcased. In the case of Ankh Macholi, the old-world brickwork, arched windows and balconies of Islamia College Lahore form the backdrop.
Mohsin Naveed Ranjha observes, “As a brand we’ve always believed that Pakistani fashion should come from our own feelings and from the spaces we’ve grown up around. That’s why we chose Islamia College Lahore for this shoot. With its whitewashed walls, arches, and old-world calm, it felt just right. Built in 1892, its Greco-Islamic symmetry gave us the perfect backdrop for our story that was dreamy and thoughtful. Just like this collection.”
A slew of models wear the clothes with two of today’s most popular young heroes – Ali Raza and Nameer Khan – adding celebrity oomph. The shoot comes together very well, telling a coy little story of its own. Ali Raza roams about in his ivory kurta-pajama set, seemingly unaware of the ladies in their designer-wear, peering out at him and crowding around his blue Vespa. And Nameer Khan walks unassumingly, seemingly in a world of his own, with all the ivory-clad girls on campus stealing glances at him.
The presentation is gorgeous. But truly, what makes Ankh Macholi special are the designs; classic ivories, worked with light-weight embroideries. The collection exemplifies what differentiates designer-wear from the high-street: clothes that are not just wearable but also memorable.
What do you think?